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Cabalgata 2002
ADVENTURE IN PERU
Trujillo, Chiclayo, Pacasmayo and Cajamarca
By
Carroll Peck
It was early on Feb.2, 2002 when we got to the airport as I turned to Jim, my husband, we looked at each other, and I said, " I still can't believe we are doing this". He said, " I can't believe it either". He double-checked our tickets and passports, and I knew we were really on our way.
We had read the articles on the 2001 Cabalgata, and had tried to imagine how it might be to be along on such an adventure, but of course reading and using your imagination just isn't the same as if you were a part of it.
We boarded the airplane and before too long, we felt it start to move out onto the tarmac, for take-off. As I looked out on to the runway, the jet began to whine and move forward. We moved faster and faster, and then felt the jet leave the ground beneath us. I gazed down and saw the Oklahoma plains below us, dotted with ponds and houses and the big round bales of hay looking very much like spools of tawny colored thread. All of the landscape become smaller and smaller, appearing as if it were a living Monopoly board, then the jet cast itself higher and higher into the sky, on its way to Houston airport, and nothing on the ground was identifiable. We landed in Houston, changed airplanes and we were on our way to Lima!
Finally, the airplane landed in Lima, and found familiar faces waiting for us….Oh happy day! There was Cheryl Aldrich and Dave Johnson to help us get our belongings on the bus. Others of the group had just arrived as well, and everyone was delighted to be there on the way to our hotel, and our first night in Peru. What a comfort it was, Cheryl and Dave took charge. Every suitcase was counted along with a head count to make sure no one was overlooked or baggage left behind.
We were all introduced to Guillermo and Ida, whom we all learned to appreciate and enjoy their company. They are a TEAM! At the time we all didn't realize the work and effort they had taken, in order to make sure each and everyone of us would be happy and comfortable the entire trip. The next day, the flight to Trujillo went without incident with the exception of my introduction to Inca Kola, a soft drink that tastes much like liquid bubble gum. Wow! Is it ever sweet! 
Once in Trujillo, our group was taken to ancient Moche ruins, where there were archaeological excavations and museums for us to see. Leading us to ponder the vastness of the complex along with how years it would have taken to build. This had been in existence many, many years before the Spanish had invaded in 1533.
"Who wants to go to a horse show"? We heard Cheryl call out. "This was not in our plans, however, if you want to go, we can". Everyone wanted to go. An opportunity to see the Peruvian horse in competition in their homeland was an unexpected pleasure. We all watched the horses and riders compete in the outdoor arena. I couldn't hear how each class knew when to enter the arena, but they all appeared and competed right on time. For entertainment, there were National Champion Marinanera dancers performing.
The show was over and the sun was dropping lower on the horizon when I heard a familiar voice say, "Who wants to ride by the ocean"? Yep, you guessed it. It was Cheryl, Dave, and Guillermo. They had rounded up a horse for each one of us.
Before I go any further with this story, I should tell you that due to some physical problems I have, I need a horse that will sort of take care of me, and my bad back, hip, knee and foot primarily. I required
a horse that is very tolerant in the process of difficult mounting etc. A chalan appeared on the scene and Cheryl explained the situation. The answer was "No problemo". They brought me a bay gelding, I scrambled aboard, and away we went!
By now the sun was even lower on the horizon. I thought to my self, "This should be a short little ride, we will probably not see the Pacific this
evening", as our group rode through cane fields.
About this time, we topped a rise, just in time to watch the sunset over the vista spread out before us. There appeared to be miles of beach and low dunes, the ocean rushing in curling green waves to meet the shoreline captivated us all. The sun cast its' last golden rays upon everything, transforming our surroundings into surreal images. I was spellbound.
Our horses moved beneath us. The Pacific Ocean breathed on one side of us, and the sand dunes became barely visible in the growing darkness. On we rode into the night, joking and laughing and visiting with one another. I heard someone say, "I think we may be just a little bit lost". Now, to my way of thinking being a little bit lost is like kind of firing off a shotgun. You either "is" or you "ain't". My ears pricked up to listen to more of this conversation. By this time, the night was black as pitch, and I moved up closer to our group guides.
One of our guides was saying, " Think we may be able to get through over here". (Here where???? I didn't see anything!) "Yes I see some lights", someone voiced happily.
We followed blindly and sure enough, out of the darkness emerged outlines of some buildings, and as we moved forward, a dimly lit street appeared.
Soon there were people following us and coming to their doors. Dogs barked and a lot of chattering was going on. The word was we were creating quite a spectacle! Gringos! On caballos! Moreover, they were riding through their town! What an event, at night, nonetheless!
The center of town was lighted by a couple of dim streetlights, where a volleyball game was in progress. The game abruptly halted, while the amazed players allowed us to ride through, with lots of waving and "Ola!" to send us on our way.
We heard Cheryl say, "Look", and in the distance, we could see the lights of the horse show grounds. I thought to myself, "What an adventure! And this is just the first day"! The ride had been nearly three hours. I was beginning to wonder how many aches and pains I might feel after a ride like that. I was accustomed to one or two hours in the saddle, I feared three hours might be more than I could tolerate. I dismounted, patted my
trustworthy steed, and thanked him for taking such good care of me. As I hurried to get on the bus, I felt great! The muscle soreness and stiffness I expected never happened. A hot shower and comfortable bed at a nice hotel waited for all of us. Jim & I looked at each other with that "Can you believe it?" expression in our eyes.
Morning came early. We moved about and got our baggage ready to load on the bus. Most of our group had breakfast from the buffet prepared for us, fresh fruit, juice, cheeses and rolls and coffee. The coffee looks black as India ink, and almost as thick as it is poured into the cup. Scalding hot water is added to create the strength of ones preference. We soon found ourselves on the on the way to a large "hacienda" and were given a grand tour where we saw 100 year old farming and building equipment still in use as it had been when it was new.
A group of Peruvian Paso horses had been rounded up for us for our ride through the desert to visit the largest mud brick structure on the American continent, the "Temples of the Sun and the Moon".
Each rider selected a horse suitable for them to ride, and away we went, traveling in gait smoothly down the roads and trails leading to our destination. I rode a nice bay mare whose name I never knew.
What a sight! After leaving the cane fields, we came upon desert hills far as the eye could see. Our horses never faltered, never failed, all the time providing us that smooth as silk ride the breed is noted for. We spread out across the desert landscape and enjoyed the ride and the company of each another.
We completed our tour of the Temple sites, remounted our remarkable
horses, and headed off once more into the distance. Too soon, we came to the end of our journey. Out of nowhere, it seemed, we had arrived at a lovely ranch, where there were hands to take our horses. A meal was waiting for us; every detail had been attended to, including the Pisco Sours served in elegant glasses. The ranch owner displayed some of his champion horses before us. What beauties!! We were loath to leave such a setting, but Cheryl reminded us we had much more in front of us and it was time to leave. Our bus driver was ready and waiting on us. A head count was made and we were on our way once again. Every one was in high spirits looking forward to the next adventure.
After a wonderful evening dinner and a restful night of sleep, we awoke the next morning ready to accept any challenges of the day. "Today," Cheryl announced, "We have been invited to the ranch where the legendary AV Sol de Paijan was produced", Criadero of Anibal Vasques located in Pijan. We were ready to go!
The bus rolled easily along. It amazed me how the driver was able to manipulate the bus through some of the narrow streets. There are no stoplights to speak of, the driver with the biggest vehicle and the most testosterone had the right of way. It was truly amazing there appeared to be no accident or injury due to the driving habits of the citizenry.
We disembarked our bus at the Vasquez estates, and our hostess, Senora Vasquez, greeted us. She took us into her home and showed us around. It was a beautiful, graciously appointed ranch. We were made comfortable on the back porch and drinks were ordered.
("Pisco sours, anyone??) As we rested, Cheryl asked if we would like to see a few of the prized horses from the ranch. A resounding "yes" was the answer. It was not long before magnificent, beautiful caballos were displayed before our eager eyes. "Any one want to ride" was the next question. Several travelers rose from their seat to take part in this privilege.
"We have an opportunity", Cheryl announced. "Who would like to go to a bullfight"? "It is not on our itinerary, but we have been invited for this afternoon". What do you know, another surprise!! Most of our party wanted to go, and taxis would be sent to pick us up.
"Taxis are here!!!!" and those going to the bullfight headed to meet our transportation.
Our expression was one of disbelief. Our taxis were the creation of some madman!! They were a hybrid - between a motorcycle and a rickshaw with room for two people seated behind and the driver in front. Diane Morton & I headed for one and climbed in. What a wild ride they gave us! I had never experienced anything like this! I laughingly referred to it as our taxi ride from Hell. Strange as it may seem, we all arrived safe and sound at the bullring. Music was blaring and the announcer was speaking into the microphone. It wasn't long, and the matadors and their entourage entered the ring. What colorful attire they displayed!! A peacock could not have displayed such finery. The bejeweled and embroidered jackets in red, blue, and other bright colors were worn with matching knee length trousers paired with bright pink stockings. It was quite a sight. It was time for our next adventure and Cheryl rounded up her group and put us on the bus, counted heads and away we went. (No rest for the wicked!)
The archaeological complexes we visited were fascinating. The history surrounding each site was unique and Cheryl interpreted for us, which was a real plus. Being fluent in Spanish, she was able to really broaden the horizons for us that understand little Spanish. After viewing the "dig", we once more found ourselves climbing on the bus, headed for our accommodations at a seaside location, Hotel Pacasmayo. We found the surrounding city of Pacasmayo of great interest. A city by the sea with all the sights and sounds and salt sea air, which goes with such a setting.
There were street vendors laden with irresistible items for us to buy were set up along the wide stone street that ran the course of the beachfront.
All of our meals had been scrumptious, each one different and all served with fresh fruit, consisting of mangos, papayas and many other delicacies. Our
evening meal here offered a varied menu of course, seafood was plentiful, and again all enjoyed Pisco sours.
We arose the next day, ready for adventure. We rode in the hybrid motor cycle rickshaw taxis to points of interest then back to the hotel for a short bus ride to a ranch nearby that had horses waiting patiently for us. Riders were suitably matched up with their mount. I found a little black gelding I jokingly referred to as "Black Beauty". Outward appearances are deceiving sometimes, and never more evident as I rode off on my horse. He was smooth and unswerving in his determination to carry me safely and surely to our destination. He was sure-footed and handled any and all obstacles put before him. He crossed brooks, wide expanses of desert sand and mountainous trails. Up and down and across a flat barren landscape we traveled, right up to the shoreline of the Pacific Ocean once again.
By this time, we had been riding several hours, and our worthy Peruvian horses were still going strong, a testament of their durability and strength.
Along the coast we rode for some time, the riders chattering, laughing and making good natured jests amongst themselves, when in the distance we saw our hotel, barely distinguishable, a tiny white dot, far away. The
shoreline snaked this way and that and eventually brought us to the far outskirts of Pacasmayo.
Cheryl had another surprise for us….we were going to ride our horses right through the middle of town, up to our hotel!!
What a parade we made! Our horses stepping out as lively as though they had just started this trek we had undertaken. The inhabitants of the city turned out to watch as we rode proudly through the streets. "Black Beauty" seemed to enjoy the attention, arched his neck, and boldly moved forward. The other horses seemed to notice they were "on parade" as well and strutted their stuff to the delight of everyone.
When we arrived at the very front of Hotel Pacasmayo, a crowd awaited us, along with the handlers for our horses. A big truck was there as well, ready to load our steeds. I patted "Black Beauty" and thanked him for being such a fine horse and said good-bye.
Jim and I shared one of those "can you just believe it" looks, and joined the rest of the group, which was in high spirits. What a great day it had been, and would be finished off with another feast at a notable clubhouse overlooking the Pacific as the waves crashed upon the shoreline.
The next morning, our bus ground to a stop, and waiting for us, tied to fences and trees, were the horses we would select from.
Jim found a young bay stallion, others of the group found a mule to ride, while I chose a palomino mare. She was restless and anxious to be on the way.
The local TV reporters were there to film the event and conduct interviews. We were NEWS! When this was completed, we were off to yet another fantastic day. On-lookers watched as we rode out into the desert on "caballos" that readily accepted the challenge of the day. On and on into the horizon before us we rode in an irregular pattern, taking in the scenery before and around us. We never knew what we might see next.
The hours drifted away as we traveled along. We had been in the saddle for some time, and again, we rode up to a beach area where we could admire the sights and sounds of the ocean.
We rode in what seemed to me a northerly direction, and came upon a fishing village. It was like nothing we had ever seen. There were the reed boats large enough for just one fisherman from which to make his catch, and larger wooden boats that seemed to serve as home for these people that made their living from the sea. I don't recall seeing any vehicles about. It was as if these fishermen and their families were in some other time in history, living very much as they had for hundreds of years.
It was no surprise to see the villagers all quit what they were doing to watch us as we rode through their humble encampment. Everyone was working, men, women and children, but they all took the time to see this incredible sight, these travelers being borne away on horses that never seemed to tire, fading into where the surrounding desert and coastline met.
The day was wearing on and we were nearing the end of the ride. We approached a small settlement where the bus was waiting for us. There was a truck to load our horses in. I gingerly dismounted, but not a twinge of discomfort assailed me. I had been blessed with a perfect ride, as had the rest of our adventurers. It had been a most remarkable day.
We arrived at our hotel and checked into our comfortable rooms. After a hot shower and relaxing a bit, we were ready for the evening……another delightful meal and pisco sours!! There was entertainment, and much to do about having guests there that had come to Peru to see the country from horseback.
Morning came; we readied ourselves for the next adventure. Ready once more to ride, we left town to a point where we would meet with our horses. I immediately spotted the palomino mare I had ridden the day before. It didn't take long before we were all mounted and on the next leg of our journey. This day we rode down trails and primitive roads bordered by canals or heavy vegetation, or both. At one location, we were brought to a tree, one thousand years old. It was enormous!! The weight of the limbs had brought themselves to ground level and spread out everywhere. The bare dirt beneath attested to the heavy shade it provided. It had been a site for rituals and sacrifices conducted by the Moche Indians, long before the Conquistadors arrived in this land of the Inca. One could only imagine what may have occurred here in times gone by in this very spot.
We followed our leaders on and on. When I noticed the abundance of partial walls and what I thought were solid fences, I made a remark to Cheryl about it. Being familiar with this she explained that they had been left by the Moche culture and were actually hundreds of years old.
Although we had been in the saddle most of the day, our ride seemed it ended way too soon.
I patted Jasmine and thanked her for being such a wonderful horse. For two long days, she had carried me safely and soundly through all kinds of terrain. She was loaded on to the truck that was waiting for her, and I climbed into the waiting bus.
The next morning I heard Jim grumbling something about he sure would like to have eggs for breakfast. He said he had each morning asked for "eggs" and the waiter would say "Si Senor, and disappear, and the eggs would never be served. I made him a bet if he would ask for "huevos", he would get all the eggs he wanted. O.K., he would ask for "wave-ohs" and see if that might produce the results he wanted. I went later to meet him in the breakfast area, there he was happily sitting at his breakfast of "wave-ohs". As I mentioned before, the Peruvian people we met tried so hard to be pleasant and friendly, even the waiters had been so anxious to be agreeable, they had just replied "Si Senior" to what ever had been said to them, without understanding any of it. It made for a good laugh.
Our days were full and enjoyable. There was no obstacle to great to overcome. One evening, we had arrived a few minutes before closing time at the museum that held the remains of the "Lord of Sipan". The museum also held the richest find ever excavated so far in Peru. We felt that closing time was closing time, but Guillermo rose to the challenge. It wasn't long before he had managed to have the doors opened for our group, and we were allowed to see the "Lord of Sipan" and the splendor that went with him.
"Carnaval" said Cheryl, "is waiting for us in Cajamarca." "Is everybody ready"? We had boarded our bus and were off! We drove through desert wilderness and dry mountains. Our trusty driver never seemed to err to be off track, anywhere. What seemed most evident to me, was there were no highway numbers posted, and very few signs advising what the next town was or how far. How on earth he was able to drive us from point 'A' to point 'B' is still a mystery. Some of the streets he drove us through were a two or three man job. The streets were so narrow he had to be directed backwards and
forwards in order to make the turns. At times, we were no more than an inch away from building overhangs on either side of the bus. It was a true feat of driving skill.
Videos were provided on the drive to Cajamarca. We would spend most of the day in the bus, and videos helped entertain us. The altitude was getting higher, and we began to see more and more oasis of green scattered about. The terrain became more mountainous as the bus rolled onward and upward.
More and more cattle and horses were seen in the fields and the mountainsides. There were burros and more people the closer we came to town. The spirit of "Carnaval" seemed to coming alive everywhere. We met a large troupe of people parading down the highway. They were equipped with water balloons they threw at each other and anyone else that they might see. Some of these parade participants were riding on a trailer pulled by a tractor, some in old cars, some on burros, and some on foot. There were a variety of musical instruments, mostly horns and drums. They all appeared to be having a grand time.
We finally made our decent into the valley where Cajamarca lay. It was a verdant green valley and much different than the desert our eyes had become accustomed to.
There, cattle and horses and even the burros appeared to carry a lot more body fat than the ones on the desert side of the mountains. The entire area appeared more prosperous and affluent. Cajamarca was a fairly large city, with even a few traffic lights. The same rules of the road applied here as elsewhere, lots of testosterone was in order.
Our hotel was in a beautiful rustic setting, and the rooms were large and clean. I couldn't wait to relax in such a place. Now wait a minute, did I say, "Relax"? There were lots to do, feasts to feast upon, shopping and visiting amongst us, and pisco sours!! What a day it had been! We would rest and get ready for the next day and Carnival.
We woke early, expectations high. Carnaval!! It would be a sight. We had breakfast and off we went, adventurers seeking adventure. There were people everywhere, curious people wondering what these "gringos" were doing in the crowd. There were smiles and greetings of
"Ola" exchanged. There were shops and street vendors with all kinds of "good stuff" for us to bargain for. I began to wonder if I would be able to carry back all my purchases.
The parade began, and what a parade. There were colorful costumes and bands and flags and bright banners. The parade marched on and on like a noisy, brilliantly hued serpent winding through the streets of Cajamarca.
Too soon, it seemed, we heard someone say, "Time to go"…. Yes Cheryl was at it again!! Rounding us up for the next event, the next opportunity. "Inca Baths are just around the corner from the hotel, anyone wants to go come on".
"Ha! Try and stop me", I thought and away a group of us went to the natural hot baths being offered. We stepped into the tepid pool and felt our muscles relax. It was marvelous. Just when I thought it just couldn't get any better, a waiter showed up with…You guessed it…Pisco Sours for everyone. After showering and dressing, we went back to the hotel to meet for supper. It was amazing! We could go from one adventure to the next and never miss a meal!
Cheryl told us there would probably only be enough horses for about half of us the next day, but they were working on it. (I began to think where I might go shopping).
Early next morning after breakfast of rolls, cheeses, and fresh fruit and anything else one might want, we showed up in front of the hotel. There were a handful of horses and riders began to choose their mount. It looked like a shopping trip would be on my agenda for the day.
That's when I heard "Everybody look out" and what did I see? A small herd of horses being driven down the long trail to the hotel, and not far behind, a truck loaded with more. There would be plenty of horses, and we could all ride. I chose a roan gelding as our entire troupe mounted up and headed out. Our path lead us along side a river and the way was smooth and obstacle free.
We finally turned away from the river into an area where there was a lane that wound between canals and closer to town. As our caravan proceeded, we received the same curious looks from the inhabitants, as well as waves and greetings of "Ola".
As we passed near a paved road that had some tractor type equipment seemingly having trouble, I wondered how my horse would respond to seeing something like that. He was young and still wearing a Gamarrilla, I needed not have worried. He was a sane, sensible horse, he kept his eye on the tractor monster, but carried me safely past and on down the road.
We traveled for some time and crossed a wooden bridge and finally entered a long tree lined road. The weather was cool and damp, slightly drizzling. I felt as if I were in a dream like state, floating along on the back of "Roanie Pony" as I called him. (I never found out his real name).
We crossed ditches, bridges and water, we confronted barking dogs, none of which my horse found to be a problem. He was an old hand after all.
Our destination was that of another ranch where our lunch was to be served. The food was delicious and our host gracious. The owner took us to see his prize stallions, which danced and pranced in front of us. What "hams" they were, they seemed to know they were showing off for us.
There is no rest for the wicked, however, and we were to all ride to the parade in the back of the pickup belonging to the ranch owner. I looked down and saw a flat tire on the rear and announced my findings. A minor problem, I found out. A few minutes later, we were all in a trailer with low sides, being pulled by tractor to the Carnival. It was a short ride, and soon we were drawn into the excitement of the crowd.
Evening came and we found ourselves at another restaurant, near downtown Cajamarca. We were told in that area, the streets and the buildings were as the Spanish had built them. They were colorful and in a good state of repair. The town square was full of street vendors and sightseers. It was a busy place, and still had points of interest, but it was our last night and We needed time to pack, and get ready for the flight back to Lima the next day.
Morning came much too soon, and there was much scurrying about to get on the bus that would take us to the airport. Everyone and everything was loaded and accounted for. There were mixed emotions about leaving this country so full of history, unique sights, sounds, and adventure. We were sad to leave all this richness behind, but were also missing our own homes and families.
The pilot of our airplane touched down to pick up more passengers in Truillo. The landing was so soft it was like landing on a marshmallow. Jim (old aviator that he is) made the comment that our pilot had made that landing more than once. When we arrived in Lima, it was the same soft feel that only a truly capable, well-trained pilot is able to make.
We arrived at the same hotel in which we stayed our very first night. After hot showers, we readied ourselves for our last big day and night in Lima. Our first "want to do" was go to the Indian market located not far from our hotel. It was a treasure trove of items. We shopped 'til we dropped. We bought gifts for our friends and families, the market was full of interesting things to buy, and buy we did! The day fled by and before we knew it, we were off to a late supper that had been planned. We wound up at a Chinese restaurant at which we were served quite a full menu of foods. Peking Duck was
amongst the offerings, and my first taste of the delicacy. The restaurant was ornate and rich in oriental design. Waiters in white jackets made sure there was an unending supply of food and drink for all. What a place! Our crowd happily chattered and visited; making the most of our time we had left together.
Too soon, it was time to leave. This time we would meet at the hotel and once again take our places on the tour bus. We had previously loaded our belongings on it, and there was no time to waste for our late night flight back to our respective homes. We arrived at the airport; Cheryl and Dave were counting heads and baggage, double-checking every thing. The wait at the airport was uneventful and all went smoothly. We entered the airplane, felt the gravitational pull as we left earth, and soon were airborne.
Through the night we flew, a tired but happy lot. The Houston airport would be our next stop, and early morning found us there. We said our good-byes to our traveling companions and boarded our flight to Oklahoma City. On one hand, it seemed like a long time since we had departed from our home state, and then again, it seemed like we had scarcely left. Our time had been so full and we had done so many things and saw so many sights we felt it had hardly been real, but it had been! We had pictures to prove it. Another of those "can you believe it?" moments.
As I try to share with you this wonderful adventure, I feel I am leaving out much. I only hope, dear reader, that you too will go and see and do, it will be the only way you can truly experience what we fellow travelers shared. It has enriched our lives by making new friends and given us a greater appreciation of Peru, our own country, and those wonderful creatures known as the "Peruvian Paso".
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